Trendstop brings blog readers an exclusive insight into the key events, runway shows and presentations from the SS20 edition of Copenhagen Fashion Week.
Copenhagen Spring Summer 2020 Fashion Week opened to an international contingent of buyers and press, with a strong sustainability message. Creating a more sustainable industry has become a key focus throughout the fashion industry and Copenhagen continues to lead the charge in promoting ethical and environmental initiatives across its spectrum of catwalk shows, presentations and accompanying trade fairs, CIFF and Revolver. Having established a sustainability advisory board in January 2019, a whole host of measures have been adopted, from eco-friendly transportation between venues and the banning of single use plastics, to supporting brands in staging responsible showcases and providing a platform for an increasing number of eco-conscious labels including show openers BLANCHE, Rodebjer, Holzweiler and Stand.
Throughout the collections, the life and style of the modern woman was a major source of inspiration for designers. Playful and girlish met powerful and practical on the runways, accompanied by a diverse cast of models and underpinned by the robust sustainable messages that are increasingly becoming the hallmarks of the industry’s new era.
Social responsibility and transparency in the supply chain are a core aspect for many designers showing at Copenhagen Fashion Week. Holzweiler are among those to implement a code of conduct among their suppliers and utilized Better Cotton Initiative cotton, as well as recycled wool and polyester as part of their SS20 collection. The organic flowers adorning the terrace of the Lake Pavilion reflected BLANCHE’s transparent and sustainable approach and provided the backdrop for a celebration of female power and passion. Rodejber’s long held ethos of utilizing recycled materials, eschewing chemical washes and vegan-suitable accessories carried through to the label’s Marrakech-infused collection of fringed pieces and Arabic garden-inspired prints.
Designers to Watch
A host of Scandinavian-based labels continued to make their mark on the fashion scene for SS20. Already beloved by celebrity influencers and the street style set, labels such as Saks Pots, with their transeasonal statement coats and playful colour-ways that encourage the wearer to stand out as an individual. Helmstedt follows a similar fun-loving aesthetic with vibrantly coloured easy-to-wear pieces incorporating vintage loungewear details offering a charmingly artistic approach to dressing. Affordable yet expertly crafted leather, suede and faux fur pieces combined with delicate core staples are the hallmarks of Stand whose designer Nellie Kamras, focuses on garment simplicity and purity or fabric. An SS20 capsule made from pineapple leaves illustrated the label’s ongoing experimentation with sustainable materials.
Danish designer Cecilie Bahnsen is fast becoming one of the key designers to watch and for SS20 she showed a well-received collection inspired by artists Christo and Jeanne-Claude. The duo is famed for wrapping landmark buildings in fabric and Bahnsen explored the concept through dresses that conceal or reveal the body. Textural feathered effects, floaty organza and balloon sleeves created placement volume enhanced further by nipped in waists and structured bodices. Trailing ribbon trims and bow tied fastenings amplified the feminine feel.
As part of the celebration to mark the 10-year anniversary of creative director, Ditte Reffstrup, Ganni’s SS20 show returned to the tennis court of the Hotel Mecure with a collection that of masculine-meets-feminine pieces reflective of the modern woman. Styling dresses with blazers and flat shoes, introducing longline shorts and a reinvention of the wrap dress were standout motifs of the collection that blended tailoring with pretty statement florals and updated animal prints. The label’s pop-up concept, The Ganni Kiosk, made a reappearance, featuring upcycled Ganni favourites such as shirts and bucket hats, re-dyed and customized in a project designed to extend the garment lifespan.
Stine Goya channeled their female empowerment ethos onto the runway via a link-up with female-centric dating app Bumble, casting five users to act as models for the collection. Alongside them, ballroom dancers replaced the professional models, offering a diverse catwalk lineup. Vibrant colours, eclectic print combinations and exaggerated oversized silhouettes fused 1980’s power dressing with a disco era playfulness, from the voluminous or figure accentuating apparel, to the bold accessories and hosiery. Polka dots, retro florals and heart motifs were mixed and matched, accentuated by layered ruffles and tiering for a contemporary girlishness.
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